EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap

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The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Education


Sam Stroh is caffeinated, psyched, and ready to send everything from double-digit highballs to free routes on El Cap. We talked about his early climbing and onsighting Moonlight Buttress (5.12+), our coffee and chocolate addictions, finding the perfect climbing partner, the biggest lessons from each discipline of climbing, suffering on the side of El Cap, botching it with tactics, and harrowing sends.Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zach EmeryBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sam-strohNuggets:0:05:17 – Coffee and morning rituals0:10:25 – Sam’s stretching and evening routines, and the self-care bell curve0:13:42 – Sam shares his intentions for the conversation and topics he wants to cover0:19:27 – Onsighting the Moonlight Buttress 5.12+ in Zion at age 20 with bad tactics0:28:36 – Meeting his climbing partner Adrian, and trying Desert Gold and Jet Stream in Red Rocks0:32:31 – Switching between disciplines, and Sam’s thoughts on how he and Adrian are so perfectly aligned0:35:59 – Sam’s background in sports0:37:54 – The benefits of bouldering for big wall climbing0:40:44 – The method to the madness with switching disciplines, and cultivating long-term relationships0:43:09 – What inspires Sam the most long-term, and having great stories0:48:39 – Wet moss on El Niño, and trying Wet Lycra Nightmare with Jordan Cannon0:55:00 – Injuring his hand on the Salathe0:59:15 – Working on Wet Lycra Nightmare, and Sam and I connect over our love-hate relationship with Smith Rock1:06:41 – The mindfulness and patience of bouldering1:12:06 – The quintessential sport climbing experience1:16:28 – Sam’s biggest lesson from big wall climbing: get a waterproof portaledge fly1:24:44 – Thoughts on big wall ethics and style1:34:12 – Sam’s ape index, and the height-dependent nature of El Cap1:37:34 – The Freerider story1:45:28 – Favorite big wall and bouldering snacks1:46:58 – Sam’s knee injury1:51:01 – Upcoming trip to Spain, Greece, and France1:52:21 – Thoughts on the lack of information on endurance training for climbing, and rehabbing his shoulder1:58:30 – Lessons from switching between bouldering or training and sport climbing2:02:11 – No more treadwalls in gyms2:03:44 – Watching the river vs. diving in